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Wednesday, March 26, 2008

The Russian Banya and Vodka

The Banya, or Russian steam bath, was the one thing I truly missed when I returned from Siberia the last time. We were so infatuated with this tradition we made plans to build our own Russian-style Banya at home.

The Banya’s we experienced were the simplest of designs: A stove was used to heat stones and water. Water was poured over the stones to create the warmth and humidity but not a huge amount of steam. Cold water was available and we used it to mix with the hot water to find a comfortable temperature for washing. Getting a good sweat first before washing was preferable. Whilst you can go it alone in the Banya, it is much easier and more fun to have a buddy along to help in pouring the water over your head and for rinsing. Wood slat floors allowed the used water to soak into the ground. The Banya seemed to always be located adjacent to a garden.


One other thing: We used white birch branches with the leaves left on to beat each other because it was said to stimulate circulation. The leaves did take the sting away of from being hit by a raw branch.

This trip we are hoping to visit a commercial banya while in Petropavolsk. I have read you alternate between the heat and steam of the sauna – getting a good sweat on – and a shower or bath of cold water, or even a naked roll in the snow. I’ve also read about a style of Banya used by mountaineers known as a Hike Banya. Picture a tent filled with a pile of rocks spaced so there is a fire within them. Once the rocks are heated, water is poured over them to produce steam and, I suspect, put the fire out. I can picture using a Mountain Hardwear Kiva tent. That could be very cool.

Ahhh and then there is Vodka. I am not much of a shot drinker but there is something about opening a bottle of Russian-made Vodka and chasing shots with a bit of bread and smoked fish. Actually, the way it goes is toast to something, eat a chunk of bread, drink and follow it down with a bite of smoked fish. At least that is the way a father and son from Ekaterineburg showed us how to do it.

The photo above was taken in Khuzir - a tourist town on Olkon Island. The Banya is in the far back of the garden.

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